An out-of-town trip among ravines and cliffs in search of a remote Etruscan pyramid lost in the forest...
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The surrounding countryside Bomarzo it offers a privileged point of view on the village clinging to a rock spur set in the lush Tiber valley. The glance at the imposing Palazzo Orsini, which dominates the ancient nucleus, is immediate. However, you have to delve into the tangle of streets, stairways and small squares to fully appreciate this town in the Tuscia Viterbo area.

The historic center of Bomarzo

The historic centre, which preserves precious testimonies of the Renaissance, should be enjoyed at a slow pace. A walk to Piazza Duomo is a must, overlooked by the church dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta which boasts a valuable fresco depicting the Madonna with Child and Saints, attributed to Perugino. Also unmissable is a visit to the palace built by Vicino Orsini in 1523 over the remains of the old medieval castle, of which the surrounding walls are still visible. What makes the trip to Bomarzo intriguing is the so-called Etruscan Pyramid, discovered only in 1991.

the Etruscan Pyramid located near Bomarzo
the Etruscan Pyramid located near Bomarzo

The surroundings of Bomarzo

The path that leads to the destination seems deliberately mysterious, without official signs. At the Le Querce farmhouse a small road takes us to the Tagliata delle Rocchette. Thanks to some generous walkers who left indicator marks on the boulders, the path is quite easy: an easy descent, a short climb and we cannot contain our amazement when we find in front of us a sort of Mesoamerican pyramid carved in a block of peperino fallen from the overlying cliff.

The lack of in-depth scientific research and certain data on this extraordinary monument takes nothing away from the emotions and charm of a place where the magic of nature mixes with the suggestions of disappeared civilizations. We now head south to an esplanade of peperino and take the road on the left side following the sign indicating Santa Cecilia. Steps carved into the lava stone guide us along the path that winds down among large boulders covered with moss and ferns. Shortly after, we see the first remains of the ancient rock settlement which occupies an area of ​​approximately one hectare: there are numerous anthropomorphic tombs and walls perimeters of a small medieval church.

The Torri di Chia and the Fosso Castello waterfalls

We come across numerous houses dug into the blocks, in caves, niches, canalization grooves and treadmills. We retrace our steps to the esplanade and, on the right side, take the path towards the Chia Tower, the longest stretch of the excursion: about two and a half hours of walking there and back plus the stop on the river. The first part runs on the edge of high tuff walls, with beautiful views of the canyon below and the town of Chia.

the waterfalls of Fosso Castello
The waterfalls of Fosso Castello

On the path you come across engraved stone blocks, then you begin to descend on steps carved into the peperino, with more or less wide hairpin bends, until you reach the Fosso Castello waterfalls, an oasis of peace that invites you to refresh yourself and take the most bizarre photographs. We go up through meadows and groves that take us to the castle of Chia, whose tower - restored and inhabited for years by Pier Paolo Pasolini - stands out towards the sky. Only a ruined city wall now remains of the manor. To return to the starting point it is preferable to take the outward path instead of the shorter but more dangerous asphalt road to Bomarzo.

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Are you looking for rest areas in Lazio? Here are those affiliated with the PleinAirClub.

Do you want to discover another fascinating village in the province of Viterbo? Here is our article on Vitorchiano?

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