Tuscan Maremma, walking around the wonders of Feniglia
If you love walking or cycling, what could be better than a day spent - preferably out of season - on the seashore? Silent and solitary, immersed in the sharp light of a clear day, alone noise of footsteps, wind, surf and cries of sea birds. Here we are at the Feniglia reserve in Maremma!
The itinerary we propose – 30 km long but also practicable for partial sections and by bike – can be reached with the camper (parking in one of the available rest areas between Orbetello and Argentario) but also quickly from Rome with the train, along the suggestive Tyrrhenian line that silently skims a sea lit with reflections.
From Orbetello to Ansedonia
From Orbetello station we begin to follow the pleasant road Via di Cameretta: a country road of serene homes and farms among rows of olive trees, with Monte Argentario standing out on the horizon.
On the way we touch the pools of the Levante Lagoon, where flamingos and gray herons are reflected in the still water.
Browse our Tuscany landing page in a camper!
After going up to the town of Ansedonia, where exclusive villas have been created in the beauty of the Mediterranean scrub, the road begins to descend and from a steep staircase the smell of salt comes clear (if you are on a bike you can follow the road).
In short we are at the waves of the ancient Portus Cosanus, port infrastructure of the Roman city of Cosa, now dominated by Tagliata Tower, or Torre Puccini for hosting the Tuscan composer. A still functioning canal - the Tagliata, in fact - prevented the seabed from silting up thanks to the movement of the tides.
The Queen's Split
While two climbers train on the walls of the crag, we immediately see the narrow opening that gives access to the Spacco della Regina. Flashlight in hand we enter thisnarrow and high natural fault, in a twilight environment made even more magical and mysterious by the faint brightness that filters down from above among the branches of the trees.
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In two places the belly of the mountain widens, among the play of lights and shadows some pigeons flutter overhead cooing and then we exit into the grandeur of the third room. A dark rock environment that looks like the bottom of a volcano: place of secret rites and magic of the Etruscan Lucumoni.
the Archaeological Park of the Ancient City of Cosa
We regain the light and we now head to the top of the promontory, where cyclopean walls preserve the ruins of the ancient city of Cosa among the olive trees, with a view over a turquoise backdrop ranges from Monte Argentario to Tombolo della Feniglia in Orbetello and its lagoon.
The Duna Feniglia Nature Reserve
It's all downhill now towards the Feniglia tombolo. The path is long and a bit monotonous in the vast and silent pine forest, but just let your thoughts go and time flies. We move first to the large beach and then to the other side to skirt the lagoon, among flamingos, herons and aromatic rosemary blooms that stand out against a Venetian view of Orbetello.
Legend has it that Caravaggio died of fever on this beach and a visit to the strange stele placed in memory is also in order.
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Orbetello and the Atlantic crossings
The Tombolo ends and a cycle path now facilitates our arrival in Orbetello. We walk through the streets of the seaside village and through Porta Nuova we access the forgotten Cruise Park, where heroic aeronautical memories are collected in the Exedra of the Atlantic Travers.
This was in fact the site of the military seaplane base (destroyed by the retreating Germans) from which the transoceanic flights of 1930 and 1933 began, planned and brought to success by Italo Balbo. If today we cross the oceans almost without realizing it, we also owe it to these daring and reckless people who dared what was thought to be impossible.
At this point the memory is completed a kilometer further on in the Orbetello Cemetery, where in Atlantic box Italo Balbo and his crew rest, who perished in that strange accident at Tobruk airport on 28 June 1940. Around them, those who took part in the flights with the Savoia-Marchetti S.55 aircraft.
Where to stop with your camper
- Orbetello The Dolphins Strada Vicinale Saline Breschi 8, Orbetello, tel. 0564 870351, www.aidelfini.it, info@aidelfini.it. Open from April to October.
- Porto Ercole The Feniglio stop (in agreement with the PLEINAIRCLUB). SP Porto Ercole – Orbetello, tel. 377 5398822, www.areasostaciropark.it, info@areasostaciropark.it. Open from April to September.
- Porto Ercole The Mines SP Porto Ercole – Orbetello, tel. 334 1556285, www.areasostacamperleminiere.com, info@areasostacamperleminiere.com. Open from Easter to the end of September.
Text and photos by Marco Sances
